After a hiatus, I present itiriti readers a place tucked away on the first floor of the India Mall, New Friends Colony Community Centre which I want to rename as a paradise of kebabs. For all those in Delhi, and for all of us who love kebabs, our share of succulent mutton pieces in an aromatic gravy, time to settle for Rampur Kitchen, New Friends Colony community Centre. Last year, I was introduced to this place by Vi and Sa. Four of us trekked down to New Friend’s Colony, a place etched in my memory since college days for serving the best Shawarma (Al Bake) for Rs 20. The place has a neat, comfortable seating arrangement for a leisurely meal for family dinners, and quiet lunch and dinners as well.
“Rampur kitchen”, true to its name offers some of the prized dishes from Rampur. Where is Rampur? Not far away from Delhi it boasts of a royal past which cascades into its cuisine and it is a place known for the knives, as a centre for arts and academics, distilleries and much more. Anoothi Vishal in a piece “Royal Rampuri cuisine, a blend of Delhi’s Mughlai tradition and Avadhi food” (The Economic Times, 3 November 2013)1 points out that this court cuisine is a melting pot of Mughlai, Afghani, Avadhi and Rajput influence after it became a stable princely state when the Nawab sided with the British following the revolt of 1857. Rampuri cuisine, Anoothi Vishal points out is known for taar qorma, shambhal ke sheekh, home style urad gosht and lauki gosht.
In my introductory visit to Rampur kitchen Sa convinced me to order qorma. Dreading the overpowering smell of spices and the rich thick gravy that one associates with qorma, I decided to skip it. Sa ordered the qorma and when it arrived I polished it almost half of the qorma. Taar qorma a speciality of the region can be eaten when the weatherboards read 48 degree Celsius. The succulent mutton chunks in a nice rich gravy with a right amount of bite and balance of texture without an overpowering smell of the garam masala has become rare even in specialty restaurants. Taar qorma remains a favourite from the first visit and I never get tired of eating this dish. I would recommend you to order half a plate of taar qorma and I assure you will fall in love with it as much as I have.
What about starters? Hang on! There are ample choices. For kebab fanatics there is a wonderful chapli kebab. You can get an imagined sensual treat from Anoothi’s article, but you have to taste the chapli kebab with the slightly spiced mint dip. Kakori kebab tastes heavenly and galauti melts in your mouth. My favourites and recommendations for starters would remain galauti kebab rolls. The star of this roll/ wrap is the ulte tawa ki paratha which is sweet in texture and complements the mildly spiced galauti kebab which true to its fame melts in your mouth. The wrap is a mouthful of spices and the creamy light green dip adds the perfect kick start to your meal. The best part of the Rampuri food is the right balance of spices and the treatment of the spices and Rampuri kitchen lives up to that in its treatment of spices and texture.
Thankfully, neither the gravies nor the dips look or taste the same. Each of the dishes evokes a confluence of cultures and synthesis of varied culinary traditions which is a product of people’s mobility. The best food emerges as a confluence of traditions and Rampuri cuisine’s attraction lies in its ability to embrace varied traditions. This, in a way urges us to rethink of culinary traditions as torchbearers of our identity politics and instead treat it as a melting pot of varied cultures.
- For details visit Vishal, Anoothi.2013. “Royal Rampuri cuisine, a blend of Delhi’s Mughlai tradition and Avadhi food” The Economic Times, 3 November 2013. http://articles.economictimes.indiatimes.com/2013-11-03/news/43611823_1_cuisine-taar-qorma; Accessed on 9 June 2014.
Cost for two: 2 starters, one main course and rotis ( 900 INR)
For address and menu visit
http://www.zomato.com/ncr/rampur-kitchen-new-friends-colony-delhi; Accessed on 9 June 2014.